A trip to the Pyrenees (via Holland)

The plan

My trip to the Alps in September 2003 had left its mark. Through the winter it gave me plenty to dwell on -and plenty of time to plan the next one. There were a couple of convenient weeks for me to be away in mid-June and in the end I chose Friday 11th to Monday 21st. Being ahead of the school holidays there wouldn't be too much difficulty finding accommodation and weekday channel crossings should be less crowded than Saturday and Sunday.

The destination? Choices, choices... the top three I'd had in mind were Norway's North Cape, the Eastern Alps & Balkans or the Pyrenees & Spain. The last of the three won -probably the least adventurous but an area I'd always wanted to visit. At any rate it gave me a rough direction to head.

I'd previously had good Channel-crossing experiences with Norfolk Line and chose to use them again -this time managing to get a return ticket for me and the bike for £59.00 -not bad!

And what about the accommodation? was I going camping? Yeah -credit card camping!

Trip diary

Friday 11th

Like the last trip I was apprehensive last night not sure why I'm doing the trip at all. The weather has been pretty good for the last few days but last night was cool, breezy and spitting rain -I was hoping for better conditions in the morning.

What a long day! Got up at 5:00 and padded quietly round the house while I got ready. I'd managed to sort most of my kit out on Thursday so final prep was relatively easy -ticket, passport, toothbrush. I packed lightly but didn't have to try too hard -two BMW touring panniers have plenty of room for one person on a 10 day trip.

On the road to Dover by 5:50 for a 10:00 sailing. Weather was bright and cool. It's hard to get the journey time right for this trip. Last time I went too slow at the beginning then had to rush like hell towards the end. This time I got worried early and kept to about 90mph. as far as the M25. Thinking I was ahead of schedule I dawdled in the M20 services then found myself rushing for the last 10 miles or so! Like the previous trip I ended up being the last to get on the boat. Let's just call it perfect timing. Loads of trucks and bikers on the boat. One big team of bikers have white tee shirts with "Lost Boys on Tour" printed on the front. Tired from the early start I dozed for about a half of the 2 hour crossing to Dunkerque.

So which way to go? For some time I'd fancied smoking some hash in a Dutch coffee shop so first overnight stop would be somewhere in Holland. Weaved my way up the coast under threatening skies and occasional thundery raindrops, eventually stopping late afternoon in Sluis, just over the Dutch border. The town has a canal, is relatively pretty and seems to draw the Dutch day-trippers. It has several sex shops and a place doing live sex shows but unfortunately there's no cannabis cafe. As I've had enough for one day I checked into what appears to be the only hotel in town. The small car park at the back of the hotel had a gravel surface. The bike bogged down in the gravel, there wasn't much room between the cars and it was hot and hard work getting the bike parked. E60 for one night and pretty basic -didn't live up to it's 3 star rating. Town cafes were nice -thunderclouds blew away inland leaving clear skies, warm sun and breezes for early evening beers.

Feeling sad and lonely -missing Sian and the kids -missing home already. Not sure about the purpose of this trip. Last one was about the challenge of riding a long distance -what's the purpose of this one?

Distance today: 345 miles

Saturday 12th

Slept well enough but rose feeling tired and with a headache. Quiet ride across Zeeland. Terneuzen had a windy seafront with white waves, river barges and container ships. Hints of Scandinavia in the look and feel of the seafront. Checkpoint cafe was excellent, as was the hash

So what's the plan from here on? South west to the point where the Pyrenees meet the Atlantic.

Spent most of the rest of the day in Belgium's tangled road network. The weather alternated between warm sun and heavy, chilly thunder showers. This was the first time my Belstaff Monza jacket had seen serious wet weather and it coped perfectly -stayed dry as a bone. Fatigue had set in by 5:00p.m. and I stopped in Reims. Almost the first hotel I saw was the Bristol -a fine faded Logis de France right on the highstreet. E50 secured the last vacant and wonderfully dingy room. Ate in the hotel -hungry having had only a Snickers and a KitKat since breakfast. The E19 menu seemed a little pricey but it was very nice -fresh grub and well presented.

Still feeling gloomy, I called Sian and told her how much I was missing her.

Mileage today 262 (616 total)

Sunday 13th

Not all that much to say about the day other than long drive south. Public parking in Reims is good -a multi level subterranean affair on the main street -and if you stay in one of the hotels you get out for free. First car park I've seen with lino on the floor.

I was keen to cover a good distance today and looked carefully at the map but despite my diligence I immediately took the wrong turning and spent the first part of the morning on a scenic tour of the Champagne region. Once I got to the motorway I made good progress. Early morning skies were cloudy with some spots of rain but conditions gradually improved through the day. The afternoon was a mix of sun and cloud but a north easterly wind made it chilly. The bike whirred and clattered away as A roads, N roads, towns, flashed by in endless succession. I'm reminded that France is a big place and much of it is pretty flat. Finished the day in St. Flour in Auvergne. Ancient town built on top of an extinct volcano. The hotel is another faded old Logis, sitting on the edge of a volcanic cliff. Great view from my hotel window.

Mileage today 419 (1035 total)

Monday 14th

Quiet hotel... not a sound to disturb me all night. I had meant to go west towards Aurillac but for some reason changed my mind at the last minute and went south towards Rodez -good choice. Completely by chance this was the road through Laguiole -we'd had a caravan near here once when the kids were small. For some reason the town appears to be the knife capital of France -if there's one there's a dozen shops selling nothing but. From Rodez the route took D roads to Carcasonne over the southern part of the Massif Centrale, crossing 1000m uplands with huge views and deep gorges like the Tarn with ancient towns perched on rocky outcrops.

These were absolutely brilliant roads -up, down, sweeping curves, challenging hairpins, smooth surfaces, rough surfaces -anything but flat... in fact a real day-long treat for anyone who likes riding on windy (wind-ey) roads. Oh, and to top it off most of them were almost devoid of traffic. From Carcasonne the roads were busy, with traffic thinning out to the south. Strings of bikers are suddenly appearing -must be getting near the Pyrenees. One of the best things about the day was the change of climate. The morning was chilly and overcast with a strong easterly wind. Though the wind was there all day the temperature climbed steadily. The landscape reflected the change -most noticeable descending from Monts de L'espinous towards Carcasonne, where it suddenly takes an the look and feel of the Mediterranean.

Evening in Alet Les Bains was in the seventies. This is a tiny spar town with a major ruined abbey, monastery etc. The old monastery had been turned into the hotel. A walking tour of the town took about 15 minutes and after the first circuit I thought I'd found the only place in France without a bar. More careful investigation revealed a small sign, bearing the chalked inscription "visitez le jardin". Instinct had me follow the invitation through a cloistered arch to be rewarded by a delightful walled garden with grass, fruit trees -and a bar! Spent a delightful hour sitting in the sun with a glass of vin rouge served by a young and beautiful maitre'd in what turned out to be the back garden of the old convent.

Distance today: 240 (total: 1275)

Tuesday 15th

Woken early by a noisy shower of thundery rain. Overcast through breakfast in an ancient hall of some sort -probably once frequented by monks. Set off just after 9:00 into wicked (and I mean cats & dogs) rain. We think we know about rain in Britain -well, yes... but when it wants to chuck it down sur le continent then it does so in style. So through my rain clouded visor I soon realize my overnight stop was right at the start of the Pyrenees and in no time I'm climbing into the hills. Within an hour the rain begins to ease off -it just couldn't keep going at that rate for too long. So, much of the Pyrenees is very green -which means there's a chance that rain is a common occurrence. The day brightened up quite well but the clouds were never far away, sitting on the tops of the higher hills and occasionally dropping a shower. So what about the roads? I soon discovered there are many little roads up into hills -many more than were shown on my map. To really explore the area you need to visit a bureau de tabac and buy a detailed map -oh, and don't forget to pack your 11xxGS. The route was... Many of the D roads are small and winding and the surfaces often gravelly so it takes time to make progress. Everything is on a slightly smaller scale than the Alps but it's all there and just as challenging. Stopped for a coffee in Mossat and discovered it's one of those places where the old hippies went! Nice and laid back in the midday sun. The cols are very different from the Alps. Col d'Agnes -empty and quiet, not a soul around, no litter. Col de la Core, up from Seix had a few visitors but still quiet. One thing becomes clear -these are the roads used for Le Tour. Painted on the road surfaces by way of encouragement are the names of the recent greats -Armstrong, Ulrich and others. These are major hills but for every (scarce) car or motorcycle there are probably ten cyclists. As the route goes further west towards the Haute Pyrenees the towns take on more of a tourist / ski resort feel. Nearly stopped in Bagneres-de-Luchon, which impressively is twinned with Harrogate but it was just too bustling with hotels and gift shops. Ended up in Castillon-de-Larboust just up the road in a Logis hotel with an enthusiastic chef. Chose a good moment to stop... rain began minutes later. Tired at the end of the day -demanding riding despite covering a fairly short distance.

Distance today: 177 (total: 1452)

Wednesday 16th

Felt uneasy in the hotel. It's very quiet, just a few couples and me -and it's one of those places where there are long silences in the restaurant in the evening and at breakfast. I'm looking scruffy and out of place; I know I'm not the cause of the silences but I feel uneasy. And the hot shot chef isn't exactly stunning.

Made slowish progress for the first few hours today. Stopped to get more detailed maps, visit the bank and get petrol in Arreau. The petrol station was a couple of kilometres northwards out of the town and had a garage servicing small tractors and quad bikes. Mostly In sign language I asked where to buy a front pneu pour la bicyclette and discovered it should be possible about 20Km further north in Lannemezan. As the tyre was really quite bald the trip was pretty much unavoidable -and as it turned out quite worthwhile. The man in the tyre shop got on with the job right away and was obviously familiar with BMWs -it was nice to watch a craftsman doing bon travail. The tyre shop was just a few miles away from the hills; it was still a bit overcast but much warmer and didn't feel like rain here.

Returned to the hills and the winding route went on and on... Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet, Argeles-Gazost, Col d'Aubisque, Laruns, Bielle, Escot then south on the Nxxxx to Espana. About 5:.00 p.m. I arrived at the Tunnel du Somport -the border with Spain. I had a certain reluctance to cross the border -I know what I'm doing in France. Turning down a chance to go over a last col I entered the tunnel -and what a tunnel (related to the Tardis?). I reckon it's 7-10 miles in length, and it was cold. What a surprise exiting on the Spanish side... a much warmer, drier, dustier, sunnier Mediterranean landscape; welcome to Spain.

My first attempt on a Spanish hotel, about 5 miles down the road in a ski resort was unsuccessful. The young guy in reception reckoned it was full -I suspect it was only part open... all the ski resorts have been like ghost towns. A few miles further was Jaca. At first it looked uninviting. For some reason a sign pointing up a back street to the Hotel Ramiro jumped out. Perfect. A very nice lady at the desk let me put the bike in a small lock-up garage that opened onto the street. The room was simple but delightful with a little balcony overlooking the narrow street. Nice rooftop views with a craggy hill in the distance. The town had plenty of bars but was a little short of restaurants. Spain were playing someone in the European cup and in the bars all eyes were on the TVs. Sat on my little balcony in the clear warm night and watched the stars go by listening to Erica Badou.

Distance today: 194 (total:1646 )

Thursday 17th

Last night's hotel was very nice. Quiet, nice location, simple but nicely presented. So Thursday was Spain. Clear blue skies, hot sun. Green hills with lots of views of snowy peaks. Quiet -sounds of, crickets, birds.

Unintentionally followed the N260 for most of the day. Detoured several times to follow interesting looking sections of road but kept finding myself bock on it. The N260 and it's associates provided endless variety of views, surfaces and bends. This road is capable of changing from the smoothest 6 lane highway to a cart track in the blink of an eye. For most of the day, traffic was very light -er, absent. Seriously, these are largely empty roads This area is very different from the French side of the mountains. Still very green but drier. More streams, more gorges. There are fewer high passes than in France. Roads that go into the higher hills are either dead ends or the high pass is shown as a farm track. Some of these might be passable (certainly should be on a GS) but I didn't have the time (or energy in the heat) to explore. Best part of the route was the N260 east of Pont de Suert where it cuts through a deep, narrow, sheer sided gorge... talk about the entrance to Hades. Must be seen to be appreciated. Despite regular stops to take on loads of water (and let it out again) the heat took it's toll. Was forced to stop mid afternoon and cool off in the shade. I was pretty well covered up but got sunburned wrists where there was a gap between my gloves and sleeves. The other problem has been pollen. It was noticeable in France but here it was a killer. I was forced to stop a couple of times to rub my eyes -horrible. After a whole day of picturesque scenery and enticing hotels late afternoon found me close to the border with Andorra in a fairly industrial spot. Decided I wanted a second night in Spain and stopped in Seo de Urgel. Knackered, I wandered into the first hotel I see. It's cheap -E25 and the room's ok but on a busy junction. The clincher was the secure underground parking. Beer and pizza just down the main street :-). The bar was air conditioned and I just sat for about 2hrs literally chilling out. Tired and thinking of home.

Distance today: 225 (total:1871 )

Friday 18th

Earplugs ensured a peaceful night's sleep -and did I need it... yesterday's heat had really taken it out of me. The hotel breakfast was good -best on the trip, including squeeze-your-own fresh orange juice. The plan for the day was to visit Andorra and end up pointing in the right direction to begin heading home tomorrow.

It took no time to get to Andorra -surprisingly active customs presence at the border... amazing how easy it is to forget what old Europe was (is) like. Andorra is mostly a crowded and unattractive town in a valley (probably nicer up the side roads). As it goes towards the French border it gets much more attractive. The Pic de la Cabanette had stunning views and I was finally forced to park up and go for a walk. Followed a track for about 45 mins until reaching the broad summit of Pic Maia. Worth every sweaty minute -though at the top I was forced to shed all my kit and walk around in just my bike boots. Lucky there wasn't a soul for miles. The excursion on foot took me past midday. Thought I might head for the coast and took the road to Perpignan. After a while I chose to loop back towards Quillan and Carcassonne -spend another night at Alet les Bains and visit le jardin again.

The route passed through some of the prettiest scenery yet -fields rich with wild flowers, broad valleys and blue lakes. Final high pass at Col de Pailheres then on to Quillan and Alet les Bains. The young maitre at the jardin was pouring a vin rouge by 6:30. Met the same couple from Stockport that I'd talked to on the way down -still staying at the hotel. Pleasant conversations in the evening and over breakfast.

Distance today: 172 (total: 2043)

Saturday 19th

Headed for home -peyage all the way. Picked up the A11 at Carcasson and followed the signs for Lyon and Paris. The first few hours were were under a warm, sultry grey sky. Traffic was heavy as far as Lyon but thinned out going further north. Ended the day at Auxerre. I camped here on the return leg of my first trip to France in 1976. I'd only remembered snatches of the town. The ancient narrow streets and architecture were much better than I recalled but there were also more contemporary bars and restaurants -not unlike most British county towns. The best thing was the hotel room. Cheapest so far at E25 but a real old French classic -flowery wallpaper, scarily sprung bed, dangerous wiring, creaky floor.... and to top it all the toilet and shower were down the corridor. Never mind, I'm not too proud to piss in the sink. Determined to leave early; if I could get to Dunkerque by midday there might be a chance of catching an afternoon sailing.

Distance today: 516 (total: 2559)

Sunday 20th

On the road by 7:15a.m. Took the N road to Troyes then peage all the way to Calais. It was a bright, cool morning with light traffic and good views over the flat open countryside. Covered the 330 miles in 5.5hrs and managed to get to the ferry port just in time to miss the 12:45 sailing. Only a 4 hour wait for the next one -at least Norfolk Line had no problem with me travelling a day early. Immigration controls have been strengthened here since last autumn. There was a long queue of trucks at the check-in, every one was being opened by people from UK immigration. I was allowed to filter through the jam but had my passport and face well scrutinized by a nice, very English lady.

The boat was on time and after a trouble free ride I was back in Cardiff before midnight.

Distance today: 576 (total: 3135)

Things that stood out

There are some fine motorcycling roads in central / southwest France -quiet too. Not so heavily populated with bikers as the Alps.
D roads in the Pyrenees are often gravelly -sometimes due to top dressing, other times just disintegrating surface
Standards of riding seemed better than what I'd seen in the Alps -no nutters in sight. That goes for Spain too !!
The N260 in Spain is a wondrous road -it provides a huge variety of tarmac and some frankly amazing scenery along its route.
The Belgians are effin horrible drivers -the scariest in Europe bar none.
Is it me or does Belgium have more roads per sq mile than anywhere else? -you can't get anywhere for working out which road, junction etc. you're on, trying to get on (witter...)
North and south of the Pyrenees is like chalk and cheese.
Yellow gloves keep your hands cool (are cooler than they look).
There's a lot of grass pollen in France and Spain in June. Hayfever sufferers be prepared with the antihistamines.